Note that all window replacements in houses built before 1978 are newly subject to the new EPA RRP Rule, must be performed by an EPA-certified firm, and the work overseen by an EPA Certified Renovator.
Replacement windows
I've heard more complaints from people about the salespeople for replacement window and replacement siding, than any other subject.
Replacement windows – There are 2 primary methods of replacing windows. The simpler method is to replace the main moving section(s) of the window, the sash, leaving the window frame, and casing inside and outside in place. This may work if the units are in good condition, without rot or serious cracking (often the outside must be checked out from the outside, on a ladder.) The exterior casing is often in need of re-caulking, an important step but a simple one to do. With double hung windows, jamb liners (the tracks which the windows will travel up and down on) are installed on each side. If the windows are fairly old, they may have iron counterweights with pulleys hidden in the wall, which means there is a 2” wide empty channel with no insulation on each side, extending the full height of the window. The weights should be removed 100% of the time, and the pockets filled carefully with insulation.
The second method is more involved, but is sometimes the best if not the only solution, involving removal of the window sash, frame, and casings. The unit will be more expensive, as it is not simply sash and liners going in. New casing will usually need to be installed, inside and out. This is a good opportunity to upgrade the window flashing to today’s standards, and to properly insulate around each window, which is best done with foam insulation.
Here are two links to 2 very good articles on the subject of window flashing:
A PDF file - Deep and detailed article from building industry consultant Joe Lstiburek's company:
www.buildingscienceconsulting.com/resources/walls/Water_Management_Details-Housewraps_Flashings_Windows.pdf
Click on the first item under “Installation Guides" halfway down the page, for Tyvek’s guide to flashing with their products:
www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Construction/en_US/tech_info/index.html?src=partnertechinfo
Insulation/heat transfer – Windows are relatively poor at slowing the transfer
of heat - which is the definition of an insulating material - compared to the other
main elements of a wall, because glass is a fairly good conductor of heat. There have
been advancements that improve the insulating value of the glass, involving double
and triple glazing with trapped gas between panes, and special glass treatment such
as ultra-thin Low emittance (Low-E) coatings. All new windows must be marked with
the overall U-value of the unit. The lower that number, the better it is at slowing heat
loss or transfer. Note: The more widely seen R-value, also a measure of the insulation
value of a product, is simply the reciprocal of the U-value, and more appealing as a
marketing tool. That’s why insulation gets promoted as having the more impressive-
sounding R-value of 19 rather than its U-value which is 0.053.
Options
I recommend having a Low-E, or even better double Low-E, coating on all new windows, as well as specifying that they be double pane insulated glass with an argon gas filling. These improve windows’ meagre insulating value significantly, among other benefits. The subject is fairly well covered at: http://efficientwindows.org/lowe.cfm. The downside to Low-E coatings is that there is a slight bluish hue to the glass, more noticeable under certain lighting conditions and a certain angles, something I have never heard an objection to, especially considering the benefit. Most windows that will be installed under the current 7th Edition of the Massachusetts Building Code will require at least Low-E coating. Several manufacturers are or will be introducing triple pane units, which will likely become the new standard.
New windows (Opinions)
Andersen 400 series windows: Grade: B+. They are made well and hold up well. Almost all Andersen windows have vinyl cladding on the exterior, with a choice of colors. Two advantages of dealing with them are that Andersen replacement parts (hardware, replacement screens & sash) are generally obtainable for a long time, and most units are available within 2 days. Many are even be stocked by larger dealers. I install more Andersen 400 series windows than any other.
Note: Andersen’s 200 series is lower quality, and I do not work with them at all. Andersen now has a company called Renewal by Andersen, which supplies and installs their own line of Andersen replacement windows. They are not the Andersen series mentioned here, but are made of fiberglass (Andersen calls it Fibrex) for the sash and frames. The warranty seems good.
Andersen has a new optional window screen for all their lines which they call Tru-Scene, which is as close to an invisible screening material as I’ve ever seen (or not seen).
Pella Architect series: Grade: A. They are very good, and more expensive than Andersens. A house I built with 44 Pella Architect series windows and doors was blower tested at an incredibly low 0.21 air changes per hour (ACH). That is close as a house practically can come to being truly hermetically sealed. Those windows perform incredibly. However, I have been annoyed with the sealing compound being applied a bit sloppily around panes of glass on several units.
Note: Pella also makes a Designer series, which are quite good, but less customizable. Pella’s ProLine windows, sold at the big box stores, get a D grade. Avoid them. I’ve spoken with a VP from Pella in person about them, and still don’t understand why a company with a great reputation risks it with these.
Marvin
I have much less experience with these, but have considered the casement units I’ve installed to be good, similar in quality to Andersen.
Note: The last Marvin window came in made incorrectly 2 times. The third time it came in properly made (normally it will take 4-6 weeks for Marvin), but the project was held up over 2 weeks.
Vinyl windows
Note: Essentially the only vinyl windows I work with are from Harvey Industries.
Harvey Double Hung – a slimline window, with more glass and less vinyl, typically for narrow windows. Available as new construction or replacement units, and can be custom sized. They must have Low E coating and be argon-filled to meet the requirements of the MA building code.
Harvey Classic Double Hung – Same as above, but not available as replacement units.
Vicon Double Hung – Their slimline window described above. Available as new construction or replacement units, in standard sizes only (matching many Andersen sizes)
Vicon Classic Double Hung – Their slimline window described above. Not available as replacement units, and in standard sizes only (matching many Andersen sizes).
Harvey Signature – Grade: B. The ones I use almost every time when vinyl windows are called for. It is similar to the slimline window, but looks beefier and has a nicer interior appearance.
Harvey Majesty – Grade: B to B+. Harvey’s line of wood windows, as double hung or casement units, with aluminum exterior cladding. Available as new construction or replacement units, and can be custom sized. The casement units can have pine or oak interiors.
Replacement windows
I've heard more complaints from people about the salespeople for replacement window and replacement siding, than any other subject.
Replacement windows – There are 2 primary methods of replacing windows. The simpler method is to replace the main moving section(s) of the window, the sash, leaving the window frame, and casing inside and outside in place. This may work if the units are in good condition, without rot or serious cracking (often the outside must be checked out from the outside, on a ladder.) The exterior casing is often in need of re-caulking, an important step but a simple one to do. With double hung windows, jamb liners (the tracks which the windows will travel up and down on) are installed on each side. If the windows are fairly old, they may have iron counterweights with pulleys hidden in the wall, which means there is a 2” wide empty channel with no insulation on each side, extending the full height of the window. The weights should be removed 100% of the time, and the pockets filled carefully with insulation.
The second method is more involved, but is sometimes the best if not the only solution, involving removal of the window sash, frame, and casings. The unit will be more expensive, as it is not simply sash and liners going in. New casing will usually need to be installed, inside and out. This is a good opportunity to upgrade the window flashing to today’s standards, and to properly insulate around each window, which is best done with foam insulation.
Here are two links to 2 very good articles on the subject of window flashing:
A PDF file - Deep and detailed article from building industry consultant Joe Lstiburek's company:
www.buildingscienceconsulting.com/resources/walls/Water_Management_Details-Housewraps_Flashings_Windows.pdf
Click on the first item under “Installation Guides" halfway down the page, for Tyvek’s guide to flashing with their products:
www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Construction/en_US/tech_info/index.html?src=partnertechinfo
Insulation/heat transfer – Windows are relatively poor at slowing the transfer
of heat - which is the definition of an insulating material - compared to the other
main elements of a wall, because glass is a fairly good conductor of heat. There have
been advancements that improve the insulating value of the glass, involving double
and triple glazing with trapped gas between panes, and special glass treatment such
as ultra-thin Low emittance (Low-E) coatings. All new windows must be marked with
the overall U-value of the unit. The lower that number, the better it is at slowing heat
loss or transfer. Note: The more widely seen R-value, also a measure of the insulation
value of a product, is simply the reciprocal of the U-value, and more appealing as a
marketing tool. That’s why insulation gets promoted as having the more impressive-
sounding R-value of 19 rather than its U-value which is 0.053.
Options
I recommend having a Low-E, or even better double Low-E, coating on all new windows, as well as specifying that they be double pane insulated glass with an argon gas filling. These improve windows’ meagre insulating value significantly, among other benefits. The subject is fairly well covered at: http://efficientwindows.org/lowe.cfm. The downside to Low-E coatings is that there is a slight bluish hue to the glass, more noticeable under certain lighting conditions and a certain angles, something I have never heard an objection to, especially considering the benefit. Most windows that will be installed under the current 7th Edition of the Massachusetts Building Code will require at least Low-E coating. Several manufacturers are or will be introducing triple pane units, which will likely become the new standard.
New windows (Opinions)
Andersen 400 series windows: Grade: B+. They are made well and hold up well. Almost all Andersen windows have vinyl cladding on the exterior, with a choice of colors. Two advantages of dealing with them are that Andersen replacement parts (hardware, replacement screens & sash) are generally obtainable for a long time, and most units are available within 2 days. Many are even be stocked by larger dealers. I install more Andersen 400 series windows than any other.
Note: Andersen’s 200 series is lower quality, and I do not work with them at all. Andersen now has a company called Renewal by Andersen, which supplies and installs their own line of Andersen replacement windows. They are not the Andersen series mentioned here, but are made of fiberglass (Andersen calls it Fibrex) for the sash and frames. The warranty seems good.
Andersen has a new optional window screen for all their lines which they call Tru-Scene, which is as close to an invisible screening material as I’ve ever seen (or not seen).
Pella Architect series: Grade: A. They are very good, and more expensive than Andersens. A house I built with 44 Pella Architect series windows and doors was blower tested at an incredibly low 0.21 air changes per hour (ACH). That is close as a house practically can come to being truly hermetically sealed. Those windows perform incredibly. However, I have been annoyed with the sealing compound being applied a bit sloppily around panes of glass on several units.
Note: Pella also makes a Designer series, which are quite good, but less customizable. Pella’s ProLine windows, sold at the big box stores, get a D grade. Avoid them. I’ve spoken with a VP from Pella in person about them, and still don’t understand why a company with a great reputation risks it with these.
Marvin
I have much less experience with these, but have considered the casement units I’ve installed to be good, similar in quality to Andersen.
Note: The last Marvin window came in made incorrectly 2 times. The third time it came in properly made (normally it will take 4-6 weeks for Marvin), but the project was held up over 2 weeks.
Vinyl windows
Note: Essentially the only vinyl windows I work with are from Harvey Industries.
Harvey Double Hung – a slimline window, with more glass and less vinyl, typically for narrow windows. Available as new construction or replacement units, and can be custom sized. They must have Low E coating and be argon-filled to meet the requirements of the MA building code.
Harvey Classic Double Hung – Same as above, but not available as replacement units.
Vicon Double Hung – Their slimline window described above. Available as new construction or replacement units, in standard sizes only (matching many Andersen sizes)
Vicon Classic Double Hung – Their slimline window described above. Not available as replacement units, and in standard sizes only (matching many Andersen sizes).
Harvey Signature – Grade: B. The ones I use almost every time when vinyl windows are called for. It is similar to the slimline window, but looks beefier and has a nicer interior appearance.
Harvey Majesty – Grade: B to B+. Harvey’s line of wood windows, as double hung or casement units, with aluminum exterior cladding. Available as new construction or replacement units, and can be custom sized. The casement units can have pine or oak interiors.
QUALITY GUIDELINES
FOR VALUE WITHOUT CUTTING CORNERS
WINDOWS
Tax credits are now available for qualifying windows and doors (and more*) through the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 (ARRA).
NEW:
